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Cleaning / Re-Packing Your Front Wheel Bearings

TOOLS REQUIRED:

1 - Floor jack.

2 - Wheel chocks.

2 - Jack stands.

1 - Wheel lug wrench.

1 - Flat-tip screw driver.

1 - 6mm Allen wrench (depending on which locking device you have).

1 - 17mm wrench.

1 - Channel-lock type pliers.

1 - Brass punch.

1 - Hammer.

PARTS REQUIRED:

1 - Can of quality wheel bearing grease.

Rags

New inner & outer wheel bearings & races (if needed).

2 - New inner wheel seals.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Engage the emergency brake and place wheel chocks BEHIND the REAR wheels.

2. Remove the hubcap with either the screw driver or "bear-claw" hub cap tool if you've got one.

3. Loosen the wheel lug bolts. DO NOT REMOVE THEM PRIOR TO RAISING THE FRONT OF THE CAR!! ONLY LOOSEN THEM FOR NOW!!

4. Position jack under the center of the front beam. Raise the front wheels off the ground and place jack stands under the outer ends of the front beam.

5. Now remove the front wheels.

6. Remove the dust cap with the channel lock type pliers. On the driver's side, you will need to use the screw driver to remove the circlip on the end of the speedometer cable in order to remove this cover.

7. Loosen & remove the the locking nut(s) as well as the thrust washer.

7a. If you have an early VW (generally 1967 and earlier) you will have two (2) 17mm spindle nuts that are tightened against each other with a locking tab between them. To remove them, bend the locking tab out of the way and remove the first nut. Then slide off the locking tab. Now loosen and remove the second nut as well as the thrust washer.

7b. If you have a late VW (generally 1968 and newer) OR if you've up-graded to the new-style spindle nut (highly recommended), loosen the Allen bolt which locks it in place, then remove the spindle nut assembly as well as the thrust washer.

8. Give the brake drum a wiggle in order to get the outer bearing to pop out, but DON'T let it fall to the floor. Remove the outer bearing and set it in degreasing solvent. Remove the brake drum from the spindle.

a. Wipe down the spindle shaft and inspect it for damage

9. Remove the seal which holds the inner bearing in the brake drum. You can use your screw driver to pry it up. Now remove the inner bearing and place it into the solvent.

NOTE - Allow the degreaser to strip all the grease from the bearings. Agitating the bearings, brushing them with a soft bristle brush or moving the outer cage will speed things along.

10. Wipe the old grease out of the drum exposing the races. Inspect the races for:

a. Gouging / grooving - Usually caused by dirt or metal particles.

b. Corrosion / pitting - Usually caused by moisture getting into the grease. Very common in cars which are driven in rain a lot as well as cars which have been stored for long periods.

c. Bluing - This is caused by a bearing over heating when it's not sufficiently lubricated.

If ANY or these conditions are present, replacement is required. Replace as follows:

d. Use a brass punch to tap the old race out from the back side. There are two (2) small slots on the back side of each race where the retaining shoulder has been removed to allow for tapping them out. Just alternate side to side until it falls out.

e. To install the new race, it's best to freeze the new race in the freezer for 20 minutes or so to shrink it which allows it to be installed easier (this is NOT required though). Place the race in the opening with the thick edge DOWN. Lightly tap the edges with the brass punch until the race is seated firmly in the recess.

NOTE - It's NOT advised to use old bearings on NEW races or vise versa since they come as sets. If one requires replacement, ALWAYS replace the other so that you always have NEW / NEW or GOOD USED / GOOD USED.

11. Inspect the clean bearings. Check for:

a. Chipping / flat spots on the rollers - Chipping is usually caused by foreign materials getting into the grease. Flat spots are caused by the bearing rollers binding up and dragging rather then rolling. This can happen when a spindle nut is too tight or if it's loose or if there is a lack of lubrication.

b. Cracked rollers - The rollers are hardened steel and are very brittle. Occasionally they will crack.

c. Bluing - This is caused by a bearing over heating when it's not sufficiently lubricated.

d. Rollers are able to fall out of the cage - They're just worn out and need to be replaced.

If ANY or these conditions are present, replacement is required.

NOTE - It's NOT advised to use old races with NEW bearings or vise versa since they come as sets. If one requires replacement, ALWAYS replace the other so that you always have NEW / NEW or GOOD USED / GOOD USED.

12. Allow the bearings to dry fully prior to packing with grease. Then pack the bearings fully with grease using an automatic bearing packer tool OR the hand method.

13. Coat the bearing races and spindle with fresh grease. There is NO REASON to fill the entire area in the center of the drum with grease. This does NOTHING for the bearings and is just a waste if grease causing more hazardous waste later. A light coating on the spindle is all that's required to inhibit corrosion

14. Install the inner bearing and then install a NEW seal assembly. To seat the seal into the recess, use either hammer and a large socket that's just slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the seal (BEST) OR a small wood block lightly tapping it until seated. Don't forget to lube the inner edge of the new seal with fresh grease.

15. Mount the drum onto the spindle shaft ensuring the inner bearing is seated fully against the inner lip.

16. Slide the outer bearing into place. Then slide the thrust washer into place and install the spindle nut(s) and locking tab (if applicable). Tighten the spindle nut until the bearings just contact their races. Tighten the locking bolt / nut and bent the locking tab (if applicable). Spin the drum to ensure it spins freely without binding. Also give it a wiggle top and bottom to ensure it's not loose.

17. Install the dust cover by tapping it into place with a hammer. For the driver's side, line up the speedometer cable with the hole and THEN install the cap. Re-install the circlip to the end of the speedometer cable.

18. Re-install the wheel assembly and hand tighten the lug bolts.

19. Jack up the front of the car and remove the jack stands. Lower the car back onto the ground and torque all the wheel lug bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 90 ft-lbs.

20. Re-install your hub caps.

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