Replacing Your Brake Fluid
It's extremely important to replace your brake fluid every two (2) years. Brake fluid is not that different than motor oil in that, over time it breaks down and needs to be replaced. Over time, with the constant heating and cooling during normal braking, the fluid can loose it's lubricating properties as well as begin to collect condensation. This moisture is a HUGE problem in a braking system. Moisture will cause rust in your brake components in the form of pits, causing them to develop leaks or suffer catastrophic failure when you need them most. Rust inside metal brake lines can go undetected for years because the line looks fine on the outside. They will weaken over time and burst at the worst possible time. Don't knowingly let this happen to you or your classic VW. Changing your car's brake fluid on a regular basis is your best defense against this type of damage and failure.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
1 - Box-end wrench (6 point) the right size to fit your vehicles bleeder screws.
Appropriate eye protection.
Nitrile gloves
Rags
PARTS REQUIRED:
4 - New bleeder screws (these may be needed if yours are in bad shape).
INSTRUCTIONS
WARNING - Brake fluid is a caustic & hazardous chemical. Be sure to wear the appropriate eye protection. Wear nitrile gloves to protect your hands from getting fluid on them.
NOTE -
Brake fluid is an EXCELLENT paint stripper. DO NOT allow it to get in
contact with any paint on your car. It will remove it in short order.
If you do get some on your paint, remove it immediately.
1. Remove the dust cap from your brake reservoir and fill it to the “full” line with new brake fluid.
2. You need to position yourself to the backside of the front wheel closest to the master cylinder. Lay rags around the area where brake fluid will squirt to keep it from making a mess.
3.
Have your buddy sit in the driver’s seat and pump the brakes until it
is firm. Once they are firm, have
your friend keep pressure on the pedal.
4.
With the box end of the wrench, loosen the bleeder screw at least ½
turn, allowing the fluid under pressure to momentarily squirt out.
Then re-tighten the bleeder screw. Once
you loosen the bleeder screw, your friend ‘s foot will end up going to the
floor. Ensure that your friend
keeps pressure on the pedal until you have closed the bleeder screw.
WARNING -
You should only bleed each brake 3 times before you MUST stop and
re-check the fluid level in the reservoir.
Running out of fluid in the brake reservoir will introduce air into your
brake system. If this happens you
will need to start the entire process over again starting with the front wheels.
NOTE -
You may notice that the old brake fluid is brownish in color and NOT the
clean color of the new fluid.
5.
Now repeat steps #3 & #4 as many times as necessary until the fluid
coming out is new brake fluid.
6.
Repeat steps #3 - #5 with each remaining wheel progressing further from
the master cylinder each time.
7.
By the time you have finished the last wheel, the brake pedal should feel
firm when depressed giving a positive feel.
8.
Now you will need to top-off the brake reservoir one last time and ensure
the dust cap is snuggly in place. If
you’re reservoir dust cap is broken or just worn out from 30+ years of
faithful service, replace it.
Take
your VW for a test drive down an un-crowded street and test out the brakes,
ensuring they work properly and don’t pull to one side or the other.
If your vehicle pulls to one side ONLY when the brakes are applied, that can be caused by many things. Some possible causes are, air in the system, brake fluid on the brake shoes/pads, deteriorated/clogged rubber brake hoses and the list goes on. If you suspect a problem with your brakes, don’t wait to fix it. Get the problem diagnosed and repaired immediately like your life depended on it; BECAUSE IT DOES!!
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Revised: September 30, 2003
.