Electric Fuel Pump Installation
Step-By-Step
Since I'm running a 1975 fuel injected (FI) Beetle case with no provisions for a mechanical fuel pump, I needed to convert to an electric pump.
My first instinct was to get your standard Faucet solid-state type pump. But when you run one of these, you should always run a pressure regulator too. That can get rather expensive @ around $55 for the pair plus you have to live with that annoying "tick, tick, tick. . ." of the pump all the time. After some thought and debate, I opted for one of the rotary fuel pumps that C.B. Performance sells. It's made in the U.S.A. by Carter (P/N - 0G28B 504) and comes with a replaceable fuel filter already attached and ready to go. This unit has an INTERNAL pressure and is available in 3.5 & 5.5 psi models and retails for just under $45. Not a bad price for a quiet 12V pump w/ a regulator and filter!! For my Weber ICTs carbs, the one I needed was the 3.5 psi version.
Electric fuel pumps typically are "push" pumps meaning they are capable of pushing fuel at their rated pressure. However, they are NOT capable of sucking fuel from a gas tank, so they MUST be mounted directly under the tank, or at least really darn close so that fuel can freely flow to it. This pump is just such a pump. I decided to mount mine against the sloping wall just forward and under the fuel tank. I just used an existing seatbelt mount bolt on which to mount the supplied rubber coated mounting clamp.
All that is needed now is to run the wiring to the supplied crimp connectors. The power needs to come from a "switched hot" meaning that it's energized whenever the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. The ground wire should ground to the body of the car. Since I don't want to disturb the un-cut sheet metal of my bus, I ran the ground to one of the nosecone nuts on the transmission.
Now I have whisper quiet and smooth fuel delivery at a constant 3.5 psi.
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Revised: August 28, 2003
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